About this trip
Edinburgh is a city of contrasts: a castle perched on volcanic rock, medieval closes in the Old Town, and the Georgian precision of New Town. Over the past decade, another contrast has taken hold — Scotland's traditional brewing heritage of amber ales, stouts and real ales now sits alongside a vibrant, rapidly expanding craft scene concentrated in the port district of Leith. Along Jane Street and the Shore, five independent breweries — Stewart, Bellfield, Campervan, Newbarns and Moonwake — brew within a few hundred metres of each other. In the city centre, bars like Salt Horse, The Hanging Bat and Cloisters offer curated selections of Scottish and international craft. Two days are enough to grasp the depth of this scene — as long as you wear comfortable shoes and don't count your pints.
beBeer's verdict
Where to go
Brewery 5
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01
Stewart Brewing
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02
Bellfield Brewery
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03
Campervan Brewery
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04
Moonwake Beer Co.
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05
Newbarns Brewery
Bars & Taprooms 6
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06
Salt Horse
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07
The Hanging Bat
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08
Cloisters Bar
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09
Brauhaus
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10
Fierce Beer Edinburgh
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11
Holyrood 9A
Your itinerary
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Day 1 From the Castle to the tanks of Leith
Morning
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9h30
— Coffee in the Grassmarket with Edinburgh Castle looming above. Stroll through the Old Town to the Royal Mile.
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11h00
— First beer of the day at Salt Horse — 14 taps, 200 bottles, the beating heart of Edinburgh craft.
Afternoon
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12h30
— Burger lunch at Holyrood 9A , steps from the Scottish Parliament.
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14h30
— Walk to Abbeyhill. Tour and tasting at Bellfield Brewery , the gluten-free pioneer. Beer garden facing Holyrood Park.
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16h30
— Tram or bus to Leith. Arrive at Jane Street — Edinburgh's golden triangle of breweries.
Evening
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17h00
— Fresh pale ale at Newbarns Brewery — tanks behind the bar, warm warehouse vibes.
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18h30
— Leith Juice and Extra Black at Campervan Brewery , 200m down the same street.
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20h00
— Waterside dinner at Teuchters Landing — fish & chips, haggis and Scottish real ales on the floating terrace.
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9h30
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Day 2 Hops, stone and sunset
Morning
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10h00
— Climb Arthur's Seat (251m) — the extinct volcano overlooking the city. 360° views of Edinburgh, the Firth of Forth and the Highlands.
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11h30
— Walk back via Tollcross. First cask ale of the day at Cloisters Bar , in the former church. Unique atmosphere.
Afternoon
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13h00
— Hops break at The Hanging Bat on Lothian Road — pulled pork, 14 taps and rock vibes.
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15h00
— Explore Rose Street . Stop at Fierce Beer — 20 taps from the Aberdeen brewery and guests.
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16h30
— Beer shopping at Cornelius Beer & Wine on Easter Road — 500 varieties to fill your luggage.
Evening
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18h00
— The magic moment: Cold Town House rooftop, pizza and craft beer with the Castle lit up at sunset.
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20h00
— Back to the Shore in Leith. Final beer at Moonwake 's taproom — the moon's reflection on the water, pint in hand.
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22h00
— Rare bottle at Brauhaus — the perfect nightcap in one of the city's most intimate bars.
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10h00
Practical information
- Best period
- May to September — long days (up to 10pm daylight in June), beer gardens open, festival season. April and October are also lovely with fewer crowds.
- Events
- Edinburgh Craft Beer Festival (June) · Indie Beer Scotland (SIBA, autumn) · Grassmarket Craft Beer Festival (Cold Town House, September) · Gravity Beer Festival (Summerhall) · Edinburgh Fringe (August — city overflows, book everything)
- Budget per day
- Budget: £35–50 (≈ €40–60) · Standard: £55–80 (≈ €65–95) · Premium: £90–130 (≈ €105–155) — includes 3–5 beers, a meal, transport and possibly a brewery tour
- Getting around
- Lothian Buses: dense network, £1.80/trip or £4.50/day · Tram: centre ↔ Leith (Newhaven line), £1.80/trip · Walking: Old Town ↔ Leith ~45 min, very doable · No metro
- Accommodation
- Old Town: heart of the action, walking distance to Salt Horse and Holyrood 9A · Leith: brewery quarter, local vibe, gentler prices · Tollcross / Bruntsfield: residential, near Cloisters and The Hanging Bat
- Beer tip
- Pint: 568ml · Half: half pint · Schooner: 2/3 pint · Cask ale: traditional cask-conditioned beer, served via handpump · Wee heavy: strong, malty Scotch ale
- Food pairings
- Haggis + Scottish amber ale · Fish & chips + session IPA · Cullen skink + oatmeal stout · Cranachan + fruit sour
What you shouldn't miss
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01
A fresh pale ale at Newbarns
Edinburgh's freshest beer
Sit in the Jane Street warehouse, steel tanks three metres away, fairy lights overhead, and taste a pale ale that's never seen a lorry. The very essence of Leith craft.
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02
The Castle at sunset, pint in hand
The city's best rooftop beer
Climb to the Cold Town House rooftop with a Crisp Lager, watch Edinburgh Castle silhouetted against the golden sky above the Grassmarket. Simple, perfect, unforgettable.
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03
The Leith brewery walk
Scotland's craft golden triangle
Newbarns, Campervan, Moonwake — three breweries, three worlds, on foot along Jane Street and the Shore. Two hours, six beers, zero taxis required.
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04
Cask ale in the Cloisters nave
The church that found its calling
Push open the door of this former church turned pub. Exposed stone, stained glass, and the city's best cask ale selection. You don't drink the same way inside a nave.
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05
Brew your own at Stewart
Your beer, your label
The "Brew It Yourself" experience: choose your recipe, brew alongside a master brewer, come back three weeks later to bottle. Your name on the label, your hops in the glass.
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06
Bellfield in the sun, Holyrood Park behind
Abbeyhill's perfect Sunday
A Sunday noon at Bellfield's beer garden, gluten-free pilsner in hand, Arthur's Seat rising beyond the rooftops. Dogs sleep under the tables. Edinburgh at its best.
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